1. Remove 3-4 in of existing sod and/or soil. Use a sod cutter for large lawns. Remove and cap or relocate all sprinkler heads within the installation area. It may be necessary to reroute electric wiring or irrigation lines. Rough grade for drainage.   

• Pro Tip: When grading, it is important to consider the slope to ensure water drains away from nearby dwellings when possible. If not possible, it may be necessary to install a capturing system like a channel drain or catch basin to prevent water from going to undesirable places. 

2. If rodents like gophers or moles are a concern, lay down Cal Coast vinyl-coated hardware cloth or gopher wire and secure with staples for long-lasting protection. 

• Pro Tip: When needed, overlap sheets of hardware cloth by a minimum of 6” and stagger staple along the seams to prevent rodent intrusion. 
• Another Pro Tip: Run the hardware cloth 4” long on the sides of the installation area where edging will be installed.  After installing the edging, fold the wire mesh up to create a basket around your substrate.  This will prevent rodents from tunnelling in between the wire mesh and the turf. 

3. Install landscape edging to create a clean line that separates the turf from planter beds where a hardscape edge doesn’t already exist. 

4. Lay 2-2.5 in of crushed drain rock.  Evenly distribute and smooth it out, hose it down, then compact to 90% using a vibrating plate compactor. 

5. Lay 1-1.5 inches of either class II road base or decomposed granite.  Evenly distribute and smooth it out or level as much as possible, maintaining the desired grade for proper drainage.  Hose it down, then compact to 90% using a vibrating plate compactor. 

6. Lay weed barrier fabric over the road base or decomposed granite. Secure with staples.   

• Pro Tip: Overlap the sheets of weed fabric by a minimum of 6” and stagger staple along the seams to prevent weeds from growing in between the sheets. 

CAUTION: Turf should be rolled out under the sun with blades facing down at least 1-2 hours before installation. This will allow the turf to acclimate and, as a result, make, it easier to work with.

1. Lay turf onto base and position where needed. Using a carpet knife/razor knife, cut off the excess grass turf on the backside (3 stitches in from sides). Cut fake turf (on the backside) to fit the area.
2. Fasten one end with 40D or 60D Bright Common nails of 5-6 inches in length, spaced 3-4 inches apart along the edges. Stretch turf and fasten with nails as you move across to the opposite end. Place a nail every 12-24 inches throughout the center and every 3-4 inches along the perimeter.
3. Fasten together seams by using 11 gauge 6"x1"x6" staples spaced 4 inches apart along the seam. Do not countersink staples.: Be sure the seams are taut and precise, the grain of the turf is facing in the same direction, and the space at the seam is the same as the stitching gauge.
4. After turf is installed, power broom before applying infill, apply infill onto turf grass using a drop spreader. Spread infill as evenly as possible with a grading rake or broom until infill settles into the base of the turf. You can use a push broom for quick and easy infilling. Note: Never use regular sand for infill. For putting green installation, use infill with a smaller grain, for example, silica sand #30, because the smaller grain size will work it into the surface better since the golf greens are dense.
5. Hand or power broom again so that the blades are standing straight up. Use carpet scissors to trim off the excessive turf blades. Clean the surrounding area with a blower or a broom.